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Product:
McNeil’s Oatmeal Stout
Producer: McNeil’s Brewery Approximate Retail Value: $4 for 25 oz bottle Category: Beer Country of Origin: U.S.A. Reviewer: D. Kearney Sparano
The F Words: Flavor – Coffee, a little bitter Feel – Smooth Finish – Slight Bite | Rating:
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By: D. Kearney Sparano
It is no secret that I like Vermont. With my last trip to the state I was determined to find that which is good in locally made food and drink. This search led me to the town of Bennington. Just outside of the main stretch is a small grouping of pottery, antique and general novelty stores. One shop sells locally made food and wines. I was delighted to see that in the store was a local brewer giving out free samples of his beers. I tried all that were offered, but bought only three. Of the three, my favorite was the oatmeal stout, which is what I will be reviewing today.
The use of oats began in Europe during the middle ages, but died off by the 1500’s, mostly due to the bitter flavor oats can impart. Oatmeal stout began its comeback during the end of the 19th century due to, of all things, the association of porridge with health. As the 19th became the 20th century oatmeal stout declined again. Most oatmeal stouts on the market were that in name only and contained around 0.5 percent oats. It wasn’t until the late 70s when Charles Finkel, founder of Merchant du Vin (a fine beer importer), commissioned Samuel Smith (a Yorkshire Brewery) to brew an oatmeal stout. The result has been the basis for numerous recipes.
Throughout the middle ages, the maximum amount of oats used was around 30 percent, though it was known to be more from time to time. Currently many oatmeal stouts have a range between 5 and 5.9 percent. McNeil’s Oatmeal Stout contains 20 percent oats. Oatmeal tends to create smoothness in beer. This is due to many components in the oats such as proteins, lipids and particularly the gums.
McNeil’s Brewery came onto the pub/brewery scene in 1991. They are a small operation producing a large variety of beers, roughly 24 throughout the course of a year. When I spoke to the owner, Ray McNeil, he told me that he was in discussion with two distributing companies about expanding into the New York area. The McNeil’s Brewery wordpress site says of the Oatmeal Stout, “McNeil’s Oatmeal Stout is so black, the sun won’t shine through it. Thick as pea soup, it has notes of chocolate, espresso coffee, toast and black tea from the use of a blend of ten grains, 20 percent oats and British hops.” Well it is definitely dark and the sun may indeed have a hard time getting though it. A pea soup thickness though, I am not so sure about. By scent there are definite toast and coffee notes. Upon sipping I immediately notice the coffee and toast flavors. There is a little sweetness which does have a hint of chocolate. The stout moves over the tongue well, but there is a bite to it. It is not harsh, just noticeable.
McNeil’s Oatmeal Stout is a hearty beer that would go well with hearty fare, something warm and filling. I could see this being enjoyed more in cold weather than in hot as well. Perhaps a good beef stew in February would be the ideal setting. Like all stouts, oatmeal stout is an acquired taste. For those that enjoy lighter beers, it will most likely not be for you. If you enjoy Guinness, Murphy’s, Mother’s Milk or any of the like however, a trip to the brewery in Brattleboro might prove fruitful for you. It is a good beer from a good brewery and I hope that they will be able to expand into the New York market in the near future. McNeil’sOatmealStout
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