Product: Lumpy Gravy Beer: Wowie zowie! This Zappa beer has a lot of potential but falls short of greatness Producer: Lagunitas Brewing Company Approximate Retail Value: $3.99 for 22 oz. Category: Beer Country of Origin: Petaluma, CA, USA Reviewer: Jon Costantino The F Words: Flavor – Chocolate, raisins. Feel – Slightly bitter. Finish – Harsh aftertaste.

Rating:

Last year, the Lagunitas Brewing Company, in conjunction with the Frank Zappa Family Trust, began releasing ales named after the early master works of the late rocker/composer. Even though Frank wasn’t much of a drinker (he considered alcohol on the same level as harder drugs), he would have approved of Lagunitas’ microbrew approach and their attempt to take beer to a higher, tastier level. But while Lumpy Gravy (named for one of Zappa’s less commercial albums) Ale has some nice flavors, its rough aftertaste takes away from what could have been an excellent beer.

When you first smell Lumpy Gravy, you’ll be overwhelmed by how much chocolate seems to be in there. There is also a hint of roasted barley, giving it a full-bodied nose. But when you sip it, a slight bitterness starts to take over and the nice candy aroma you first sniffed when you raised the glass seemed to disappear. It’s a shame that the alcohol taste start to become so overpowering (which is a surprise since the beer only has a 7.2 ABV for 22 oz), because this could have been one of those ales you can savor with every sip. And when you finally swallow it, it’s almost all ale and no flavor. I did admire its beautiful, brandy-like color, and think that this is a beer for swirling and admiring from afar, but not really for sipping.

I was really looking forward to this beer, especially since I enjoyed Lagunitas’ Freak Out! Ale they put out last year, which was the first in the series inspired by Frank Zappa. Maybe next month’s We’re Only In It For The Money Ale will be better, because if it’s not, Lagunitas will be making more cash off of the album-cover label on the bottle than the beer inside. And FZ was never one for style over substance.